Taxco, Mexico

Leaving the City of Eternal Spring, Cuernavaca, I managed to sneak away for a weekend in the charming valley village of Taxco, State of Guerrero.
I should note, the true name of this country is the United Mexican States, the Republic of Mexico. There are thirty states, plus the Federal District of Mexico (much like our Washington, D.C.). Cuernavaca is in the state of Morelos.
I am highlighting Taxco, as she is a splendid example of old world colonial Mexico 1500´s and onward, while several of her constructions date as far back as the 1100´s. Taxco is what the Spanish call a Pueblo Blanco, or white town. The majority of her houses are adobe and stucco, are plastered together, lining the narrow, cobblestone streets or paths which all funnel to into the main plaza or Zócalo of the village. Here you find her cathedral, which is on the list of the world´s most 100 watched heritage sites in danger of being lost. This mamouth, pale pink-sandy colored cathedral is reminiscent of la Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, in that she is coated with stone spultures and reliefs, such as saints and gargoyles. Gargoyles, by the way get their name from the gurgling sound that is created as water pours from their throats during rain storms. Inside her walls display mural after mural and goldleaf painted moldings and altars. Ancient porcelain saints lay out, displayed in glass cased tombs. They are dressed in colorful robes with ribbons and crowns. Many people come to these holy sites to pray to the specific saint who is thought to be responsible for assisting in earthly needs, such as loss or fertility or safety.
Everything in Taxco spills out over itself, her purple cascading flowers, her patchwork of pasted together homes, her tiny gardens and verandas. The village is wedged into the gap of a valley rising up the wall of a mountain. The labyrinth of stone stairways that connect mini-oneway streets lends itself to adventure and discovery. She is small enough to "get lost in" without worry... again, because eventually the radius of connecting stone walkways, staircases and streets all return to the Zócalo. My first morning in the village was a heart racing jumpstart vertical walk up to the mirador (lookout) offering panoramic views of the Taxcan valley, whose jewel would be the central square cathedral.
Looking up the from just about anywhere, you see la Virgen de Guadelupe at the highest peak overlooking the city with her arms opened wide, embracing the village. That would have been an additional hour skywards!

I arrived via bus at sunset. Unbeknowst to me, it was the closing of a week long Festival de Plata (Silver Festival). In addition to being known for her stunning setting and fresh air, Taxco is a silver mining town. Without giving specifics, I will say most of my Christmas shopping was satisfied in the spiraling, meandering markets of native artesans using local silver. The abundance of handicrafts is mind boggling. At these outdoor puestos (booths) in the marketplace, silver is weighed and you are quoted "the going rate." Although a narrow margin of bartering is possible, the quotes are very fair in the marketplace (when in doubt, please don´t barter in actual shoppes, just visit them to get an idea for the retail prices!). Most other crafts and items for sale in outdoor markets are offered at prices intended to be reduced by the practice of tourist-vendor bartering. It´s losts of fun, and requires a skillful and polite art to reach a rock bottom price without upsetting the merchant (wink!). Sincerely, I purchased several items which could´ve been "had for less" but I wanted to pay fairly and not take advantage of evident economic needs during their slow season. Finding the balance of fair trade is part of the art of bartering, and is a personal energy between you, the item, and the vendor. I am always chatty when aproaching the vendor, wearing a smile... and regardless as to the acceptance or decline of a sale, I am careful to express my thanks with a sincere look into their eyes. Being an American abroad carries with it several stereotypes: for example, one of being perceived as rich, and yet another carrying an air of entitlement, a conflicting combination (wanting more for less, despite having the money to pay fairly). I keep in mind something my brother, Brian, taught me, "You should never pay more for something than what it is worth to you." That means you may not be buying the item, or that you must wait until the item becomes available at the price you want it for. I found items for less that I had paid more for, and I also passed on items in which the price could not be bartered down to what I felt it was worth (to me)... often later finding it at a different puesto at an acceptable price.
The evenings in Taxco were filled with celebration and music. The townspeoples were crammed into the zócalo to enjoy the live concerts. Excellent and free top personalities were hired by the village to partake in the annual celebration. Silver is the commerce of the village and means wealth, thus it is honored each year. Three meter long tubular balloons were being tossed and bounced throughout the crowd. I had a VIP seat in the balcony of a pizzeria overlooking the square. I was jarred by frequent deafening screaches of excitement and applause, as the youth of the village cheered on their guest artists, musicians with pop rock talent and crowd pleasing banter.
Taxo is a MUST VISIT, so far my favourite locale in limited view I have had of the Mexican landscape. Taxcan people are kind, patient, and curious.
At the end of each day I had pleasantly exhausted myself with the endless walking of these hilly streets, carrying my packages and a nostalgia for returning home soon.